Note that the enclosure is laying upside-down, so they are actually in the ceiling. Next, I added some LED-strips on the sides. The face plate has a flange to keep it from moving around in the hole, and is less than half the thickness of the enclosure wall, so I printed a second copy of it, put one on from either side and simply secured the whole thing with the locking nut of the DC jack. I also mace a short DC cable to connect to the printer.
#Pango trinus download series
I then soldered and crimped some cables to wire the switch in series with the DC jack and connected two Wago cage clamps for distributing power to the multiple things on the inside of the enclosure. (Make sure their rating is higher or equal to that of the power supply!) The jack lets me split off power to the Raspberry Pi and also fixes the slight annoyance of having to reach in to the very back of the enclosure to connect the cable to the printer. This was then fitted with a switch and a DC jack for the power supply. I started by printing a faceplate for the hole in the back of the enclosure: So to fix this, I wanted to put a switch on the back, put in some lights and add a Raspberry Pi with a camera and Octoprint inside the printer. Also no way to control or monitor it remotely. No network interface – you have to connect to the printer via USB directly or go get the SD-card.No lights inside the enclosure – we got the additional enclosure, but it came without any lights inside.No power switch – the only way to turn the printer off is by unplugging the cord.I’m pretty happy with the overall quality of the printer so far, but for our use I immediately identified some areas of improvement: At work, we recently got the Kodama Trinus combined 3D-printer and laser engraver.
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